Djibouti to Suakin
12 days in so called civilization is more than enough but there was simply no chance to
leave from Djibouti cause of the constant northerly winds and when
its blowing 20knots, in Bab el Mandeb it is more like 30knots on the
nose – i don‘t need this.
But finally there is
a weather window coming. Distance 620nm, in good conditions
with southerly winds from 15-20knots an easy 4 day sail – so far
the theory.
As usual it comes
different, the weather window shrinks to 3 days, the winds are not
constant at all only the first 200 miles is a strong south wind. BUT
only 2 hours after leaving my autopilot decides to go on strike again
and so i sail with small sails, much slower than planned through Bab
el Mandeb, having here also the last stretch of pirate invested
waters, it just takes me forever to get the pilot working again and
speed up.
Already during the
second night the wind goes to sleep after midnight and i only make a
3 knot average till the morning when sun and wind come back. After
dark falls in, the wind sleeps as well as i do. There is no chance
that i can do it in 4 days so i change my strategy and instead of
sailing a direct course to Suakin i sail about 345 degrees, making
more north than west. The thought is that the Northwind will come,
100% sure, question is just when, and it will be very important how
far north i am at this time. With the shift of the wind from south
over east to north i will change course from north to the
westnorthwest which will still be sail able without bumping to much in
the growing waves.
Day 4 and the the
boat is winding its way 40-50 degrees left and right, whats going on?
It takes a while till i find out that a huge bush of seaweed is stuck
in the starboard rudder turning the boat around and confusing my
helpless autopilot as well as me. A 5 minute swim and with the help
of a good knife the boat is ready to sail straight again as well as
my strong odeur seems to be gone.
I can not even make
it till Wednesday evening to Suakin, so one more night out and doing
the last 80 miles through the coral filled waters. It is blowing 25
and then my autopilot fails again. This will be tough with that
strong wind, not knowing exactly where i am, hundreds of reefs around
me, shooting along with 7 knots.
I know i have about
15 miles of clear waters, so i take out my tools, sitting in the
cockpit, the left hand on the tiller and steering, the right eye on
the compass, the left eye on the autopilot which i hold with my feet
to the ground so it can not fly around, and in the right hand my
screw driver opening the case, and fiddling around in the entrails of
the electronic and mechanic parts. 10 miles later it makes the first
beep and an other 3 miles more till the autopilot is in place again,
bringing me safe to Suakin which i reach around noon after 6 days of
very intense sailing.
The anchorage is
super safe in Suakin, you could not wish for better protection. The
village has a interesting market, very friendly people, lots of
donkeys, goats and sheep's running around freely everywhere and tons of fine sand dust.
The old town, which
is situated on a small island, are just ruins, nobody living there
anymore. The newer part on the mainland looks the same but with
people in the downgoing houses, who cares, its warm, does not rain,
so they can watch the stars from their beds.
